Some ingredients gain popularity for treating certain skin issues because they often work. However, they may not be for everyone.
When you’re working on your skin, chances are you’re following the popular suggestions for solving your particular skin issue, like a salicylic acid treatment for acne or a vitamin C serum for dullness.
After all, what works for hundreds must work for you… right? If only skin transformations were that simple.
When you’re faced with a skin care solution that just isn’t solving your problem or is actually making your skin worse, it can be not only frustrating but also confusing. There’s never only one answer. No one-size-fits-all skin care solution.
Let’s look at some of the most popular reasons your skin care routine might not be working, plus alternatives you can try to get your skin issues back under control.
Skin care products work best when used daily as part of a routine. Some research shows that stopping a long-term moisturizer can cause excessive dryness, although the skin does bounce back within a month.
The American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD) also recommends applying products in a certain order. For example, you can try applying moisturizer or sunscreen after any prescription skin medications or treatments.
For the best results, start by cleansing, then medicate, moisturize, and leave makeup for last.
If a product has been sitting on the shelf too long, it can definitely make it less effective and less likely to deliver the results you’re looking for.
According to the
“Consumer skin products should undergo stability and efficacy tests,” says Dr. Brundha Balaraman, board certified dermatologist and founder of the SkinTRUST Society.
“Since these tests aren’t mandatory, and nonprescription cosmetics aren’t approved by the FDA, there’s really no way for American consumers to know how long a product will last,” Dr. Balaraman says.
The FDA notes that expiration dates for cosmetics are “
In general, “all natural” skin care products may contain plant-based ingredients that make bacterial growth more likely, so it’s best not to leave them sitting on your shelf for too long.
According to Dr. Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist based in New York City, where you’re keeping your products matters.
“Storing your products in your bathroom where the temperature can get very high due to hot showers may change the effectiveness of some ingredients,” Dr. Jaliman explains.
“Extreme ambient temperatures may significantly affect product stability and efficacy,” Dr. Balaraman says. This means it can make your product react, look, feel, and even work differently.
“For example, sunscreen products that are overheated in cars may no longer be effective against ultraviolet radiation, or may cause skin irritation,” Dr. Balaraman says.
The FDA notes that
You might want to store your products the way you store food: in a mini beauty fridge.
When the weather changes, so does your skin care routine. This can lead to less consistent use of products.
For example, in the hot summer months, the FDA suggests reapplying sunscreen
During colder months, on the other hand, dry winter air can leave your skin parched. This can lead you to reach for heavier moisturizers, shifting the balance of products you typically apply.
Weather can be unpredictable, but a temporary change in your skin care regimen probably won’t stop you from getting back on track later.
“Low quality ingredients can cause a product not to work as well,” says Dr. Tsippora Shainhouse, a board certified dermatologist in Los Angeles. Not all skin care products are created equal, and sometimes we see that reflected in prices.
Dr. Shainhouse refers to inferior ingredients, subpar formulations, unstable molecules, or packaging as potential areas for quality checks. For example, open-jar packaging can let a lot of oxygen in, causing destabilization in active ingredients.
If you’ve eliminated any potential issues with the product, then chances are it’s the ingredients.
“It may be the proper ingredient, but the concentration is so low that by the time some of it reaches the target area in the skin, there’s not enough to have a qualifiable or quantifiable effect on the skin,” says Dr. Shainhouse.
Before you chalk up an ingredient as ineffective for your skin, search for the ingredient list of your product. If the active ingredient isn’t in the top five, there’s probably not a high enough concentration to see results.
So, how much is too much? Or too few? This depends largely on the products and how you’re using them.
According to the AAD, using too many products can irritate your skin. That’s especially true for pro-aging remedies, which can actually make your skin look older if you use too many.
Some skin care products are quite powerful, and using too much can have negative effects. If niacinamide, for example, is pilling on your skin, use less and give it a few minutes to absorb after application. But if it’s causing changes in skin color or irritation, consider something else entirely.
The same is true with some prescription retinoids for acne. If you’re living with skin color changes or irritation, check in with your dermatologist. They might recommend using less of this product.
But sometimes it’s a good idea to use products in combination. Hyaluronic acid, which is usually touted as a product that helps retain moisture, can, in some cases, dry out the skin. So, it may work better when combined with a moisturizer.
If your skin care routine falls short of your expectations, it might not be your fault. It could be the information you’re relying on.
There are several skin care sources online, many published by people who lack the training or credentials to give sound advice.
Consider speaking with a dermatologist, especially if you have a skin condition like rosacea that
If retinol is too intense for your skin, try bakuchiol, a natural alternative. Bakuchiol “imitates retinol to a degree because of its pro-aging properties, but it’s all-natural, unlike retinol,” Dr. Jaliman says.
Bakuchiol extract is also a good alternative to niacinamide. You can also try rosehip seed oil or a face acid. Since niacinamide can treat many conditions, your replacement depends on your goals.
Salicylic acid is a common acne treatment, but not everyone sees results. Many alternative ingredients may work for acne, such as:
You may even want to try at-home blue light therapy. However, if your acne is chronic and cystic, Dr. Jaliman recommends consulting a dermatologist. They can prescribe a stronger treatment, such as a prescription topical or antibiotic, to get your acne under control.
If you have a prescription for your skin and it’s not working, consider speaking with a doctor about making changes.
If your skin care routine is falling short, don’t worry. Making some small tweaks, like replacing products with alternatives and storing them properly, can help get things back on track.
If you continue to have skin issues, consider consulting a dermatologist for more personalized advice.